While J-pop and its ever increasing global status is almost instantly attributed to the music culture of Japanese cities Osaka is one metropolis that does its best to stand indifferent to that label.
The capital of the third largest prefecture in Japan has built its music scene around the raw and abrasive stylings of rock and its related genres. The noise that permeates throughout this city is harsh to say the least.
It’s not hard to see why Osaka’s music scene is a bit rougher around the edges compared to its city counterparts. The metropolitan area is the only city left in Japan with a slum, Nishinari, and next door to this area is a century old and traditionally persevered red light district.
Take local producer Magical Mistakes’ word for it as he described the city to Impose Magazine as “the place where people jaywalk, talk with their distinct slang, eat Japanese soul-food, and carry more swagger than their Tokyo counterparts”.
In fact the musician gives a good summary of the 25-year history of noise music in the city. While starting first and foremost at the internationally recognized Boredoms (read more below) Magical Mistakes cites “legendary shock/performance gurus Hijokaidan, sex-psych-creepers Oshiri Penpenz, late female-duo Afrirampo, heroes of psychedelia Acid Mother’s Temple (and) solo-femme weirdo Doddodo” as just some of the acts that have characterized Osaka’s eccentric and polarizing musicians to have made their name in the underground.
While noise and psychedelia are well represented the producer himself is one of the best examples of the growing diversity in the metropolis’ music community. An important player in the burgeoning electronic music scene Magical Mistakes and his compatriots in Kubo and Seiho, just to name a few, have developed their own musical community.
The cause of this can be accredited to Kubo’s ‘INNIT’ parties that have brought together electronic and hip-hop music makers. Just as this scene has started to grow the whole tri-city region of Osaka, Kyoto and Kobe has ripened with it.
But of course for some tourists who don’t speak Japanese stumbling on the underground scenes of Osaka might be more difficult than what they first assumed. The city’s nightlife does cater for non-Japanese speaking visitors. Gaijin (meaning foreigner) bars are establishments that often have tourists as their clientele and their staff are equipped to deal with foreigners.
To see the more classical or less raucous side of Osaka world-class orchestras can be experienced at Osaka-jo Hall, Festival Hall, SoulF-Try, Symphony Hall and Phoenix Hall.
Vinyl hunters are spoilt choice in in the city as well. Along with the three listed below the city is teeming with record stores. The areas of Den Den Town and Amerika Mura should be your first port of call.
While Tokyo’s music scene is substantially bigger and more eclectic Osaka can pride itself on the fact that it has a music community, which is developing to the point of being in a thriving state.
Osaka Festivals/Conferences
Summer Sonic Festival
As Fuji Rock’s main rival, this festival is held simultaneously in Osaka and Tokyo over two days in August. Around 200,000 people attend the events which host some of the world’s biggest mainstream pop acts, as well alternative artists. The diverse 2012 lineup featured Rihanna and Ke$ha sharing stages with Green Day, Franz Ferdinand, Sigur Ros, and Grimes, just to name a few. Held annually since 2000, the festival has quickly taken the title of Japan’s biggest music festival.
http://www.summersonic.com/2013/english/
Osaka Record Stores
King Kong Records, B1 Sun Build. 2-9-28 Nishi-Shinsaibashi Chuoku, www.kingkong-music.com
Located in the Amerika Mura district this record store specializes in vinyl with quality and huge sections dedicated to hip-hop and reggae music. Indie, new wave and punk records are also well represented in this diverse collection of LPs. Regarded as one of the best record stores in Osaka as soon as you walk down the wooden stairs you’re confronted with stacks of vinyl and walls that are littered with music posters.
Rockers Island, Osaka West North Horie 1-Chome 2-17, http://www.rockers-island.com/
Under the umbrella of Rockers Island Reggae Music Company is a web magazine, the Koyashi Haikyu label and of course, a record store. The establishment is home to a huge collection of quality LPs made up of dancehall and reggae sounds. Rockers Island sells LPs, CDs, DVDs and merchandise
Timebomb Records, Chuo-ku, Osaka Nishi-Shinsaibashi 2-9-28 Sanbouru B1, www.timebomb.co.jp
At this record store there are two different sections. One is entirely dedicated to rockability, while the other is far more diverse with indie, new wave, punk and metal vinyl included. In the latter’s section a special cage stocked with rare records can be found. Opened in 1990 Timebomb also stocks CDs as well as vinyl.
Osaka Music Venues
Bar Rock Rock, 3F, 1-8-1 Shinsaibashi Atrium Building, West Shinsaibashi, www.rockrock.co.jp
Four reasons why every rock fan should visit this music house: Metallica, Alice Cooper, Bad Religion and Motley Crue. Those aforementioned acts have all played Bar Rock Rock since its inception in 1995. You’ll hear everything from punk to metal in this venue, which also hosts DJ nights specializing in various different rock styles. While you’re enjoying the signed memorabilia of those who have shown their face at Rock Rock in the past you might as well order some food from their menu.
Bar Midian, 2F, 10-16 Kanai First Leisure building, Doyamacho, Umeda, http://midian.jp
Heavy Metal fans in Osaka your first stop in the city is here. You should come here first, not only because it is incredibly hard to find (check out some detailed directions here), but more importantly because you’ll find the city’s best metal bands in Bar Midian. Once you’ve found this venue feel free to appreciate props like the candle in a Dracula wine bottle, the many skeletons and the axe that comfortably rests in an umbrella stand.
Namba Bears, Osaka West Tough Honcho 1-Chome 14-19, http://namba-bears.main.jp
Owned and ran by Boredom guitarist Yamamoto Seichi this venue is located under an anonymous office building. If you thought this venue couldn’t get anymore underground than you’re sadly mistaken Namba Bears is essentially a small space with some carpet and a sound system. That means BYO drinks, but the establishment does provide an assortment of eclectic experimental acts.
Osaka Acts You Should Check Out
Boredoms – Facebook
Officially formed in 1986 this noise act is one of Osaka’s most notorious bands. With over seven albums and various EPs their last LP, Seadrum/House Of Sun, was released in 2004. The band have toured with Nirvana and Sonic Youth and played the main stage of Lollapalooza in 1994. Boredoms played the 2011 All Tomorrows Parties’ ‘I’ll Be Your Mirror’ in Tokyo, while in 2012 Jeff Mangum of Neutral Milk Hotel chose the band to play the Minehead, England version of the event.
Magical Mistakes – Soundcloud
Erik Luebs is the man behind this moniker and he describes himself as “a guy who makes songs that sound like wooozy big ideas”. The producer has spent time in LA but he is heavily involved in the Osaka music scene and is a regular at the INNIT parties held in the city. His latest album, Everything Uncertain, was released in 2012.
Seiho – Soundcloud
With formal training in jazz and inspiration taken from the music city of Los Angeles this producer has created a sound, which the label that he spearheads, Day Tripper Records, describing it as “urban pop”. He is currently gaining attention across Japan via his 2013 release, Mercury. Listen to his track ‘Evening’ below.
