Fatih Akin’s 2005 documentary, Crossing the Bridges: The Sound of Istanbul, does its best to capture the essence of Istanbul’s music scene.
The film which screened at Cannes is Akin’s portrait of the city’s vibrant music culture that he so dearly loves. But he admits in the beginning that it “remains a mystery”.
The music of Istanbul is almost impossible to describe. The film’s title refers to the fact that the city is at the point where Asia and Europe meet, meaning Istanbul is as open to the East as it is the West.
With influences from Europe and Asia being mixed with the city’s own rich cultural heritage, the music scene is complex, diverse and unlike no other on Earth.
While the city has many venues suited for rock bands, there is also a huge demand for DJs and dance music. That’s not to mention an affluent indie scene that is well supported by locals.
Istanbul is known for its cultural diversity and with a population of around 14 million this ancient city has a night-life that caters for fans of new age acts as well traditional music.
Popular amongst locals and recommended for tourists is a Fasil music experience. Turkish Fasil music is played through violin, lyre and clarinet musicians and is found in a traditional meyhane (tavern).
The musicians play a mix of classical Turkish music as well as hits from the 50s and 60s. Crowd participation is expected, as the locals will pull tourists to their feet to ensure the whole room is involved as they sing as loud as they can.
This might sound embarrassing, but alcohol is of course essential for the night and it’s a great way to experience some traditional Turkish music.
If you can’t gather up the courage for a night of Fasil exploits than you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find on weekend nights that you don’t have to find the music, it’s right in front of you.
In some of the city’s busiest streets musicians are everywhere playing for free. On the pedestrian street of Istikal you can find a moving stage car with a band performing on it.
And it’s not as if these musicians are just like any other busker you might find in your home city. They attract respectable audiences, with locals appreciating their talents.
Istikal is one of the city’s most famous streets and it is home to variety of music stores and venues. The popular street sees nearly 3 million people over the course of a single day on the weekend.
However while the music scene is flourishing now, it wasn’t always so. The independent and rock music scenee have only truly grown into something in the past ten years.
It’s only been in the last few years that venues have started popping up as the internet has opened up the minds of the city’s youth, who now have even more avenues for inspiration.
As a result the city has become increasingly focused towards youth activities, with the night-life in Istanbul quickly becoming something that tourists don’t soon forget.
Nightclubs have become popular and now more than ever there are plenty of opportunities to see live music.
Istanbul’s music scene is an eclectic mix of styles that comes from all around the world. While the city’s music scene might have only started to come into its own in the past 10 years, its vibrancy ensures that the scene doesn’t feel like it’s in its infancy.
As Akin said in his documentary, the complexities and depths of Istanbul’s music culture is incredibly hard to fully comprehend, which is what makes this city an essential visit for music lovers.
Istanbul Festivals/Conferences
Rock ‘n’ Coke: Sponsored by the mega soft drink maker this festival has been held at the Hezarfen Airfield since 2003. Held over two days Rock ‘n’ Coke is the city’s biggest, with huge international headliners topping the bill over the years. In 2011 the lineup featured acts such as Limp Bizkit, Motorhead, The Kooks, Moby and Friendly Fires. The festival which also features local additions, mainly has a strong rock focus, although the ‘DJ Arena’ is there to accommodate dance music fans. Rock ‘n’ Coke is held in July.
http://www.rockncoke.com/
Electronica Festival Istanbul: Held at Burc Beach either in mid-July or late August this festival brings a huge lineup of DJs to almost 10,000 punters. Having featured the likes of Armin Van Buuren, Sasha and John Digweed in the past, EFI brings the world’s best DJs to the city, while showcasing up and coming talent. Held since 2004 the festival runs from noon to dawn. This is undoubtedly the city’s biggest party of the year.
http://www.electronicafest.com/
Traditional Istanbul Açıkhava (Open-Air) Concerts: As a tourist in Istanbul this festival is essential for those looking to experience the best of the local music scene. The open air concerts demonstrate the diversity of the scene with artists from Turkish pop, folk, rock and alternative backgrounds all performing. The Open Air Concerts was first launched in the mid 1980s and it provides the opportunity to see innovative local acts. It’s an opportunity that is to good to miss.
Istanbul Record Stores
Zihni Müzik, Mühürdar Caddesi Akmar Pasajı No.70/13
This record store is home to one of the city’s biggest record collections in the country. With over 9000 LPs for sale, they’re sure to have something you didn’t know you needed, or maybe even a record that is the beginning of your appreciation for Turkish music. Over three quarters of the collection is second hand, which ensures that you’ll find a cheap record or two.
Vintage Records, Dr. Esat Işık Caddesi No:20
With a strong collection of second hand LPs, this record store also sells a variety of musical equipment. Mainly selling vinyl from 60s and 70s Turkish pop and rock music, there are also a fair few classic rock LPs. The store is open late seven days a week.
Ada Müzike, Orhan Adli Apaydin Sokak 20
This record store is dedicated to providing LPs by Turkish rock and protest artists. It is the first in the city to have such a specialisation. Owned by a local record company, Ada, the store also sells foreign CDs, newspapers and magazines. A small cafe can also be found inside, as well as a ticket booth for local gigs.
De Form Müzik, Turnacıbaşı Caddesi 45, Çukurcuma
Run by two friends this shop is old-school. Want to try before you buy? De Form Müzik has a turntable for you to listen to any record before you ultimately decide whether or not it’s good enough for your collection. The store mostly sells Turkish editions of international releases, however there is also a small selection of Turkish folk music.
Istanbul Bars
Arkaoda, Kadife Street, No:18/A Kadıköy, http://www.arkaoda.com/eng/
This converted townhouse is the place to catch up and coming alternative acts in Istanbul. It is the situated in the busy Kadiköy district which is also known as the home of the city’s alternative scene. The gigs here are intimate, with the venue having multiple small spaces for live music. DJ sets are also common with local and international independent music being featured on the playlist. It’s not hard to find either, with the venue situated in what the locals call the ‘bar street’.
Otto Santral, Emniyettepe Mahallesi, Kazim Karabekir Caddesi 2/7, Elektrik Santrali-eyüp, http://www.ottoistanbul.com
It may be a little way out from the city centre, but visiting this venue is a must if you want to see just how much the citizens of Istanbul love their music. Otto Santral is apart of a larger museum complex which has been converted from an old factory. The venue is essentially a massive hall inside a warehouse which features local and international DJs as well as rock bands from the city’s local music scene.
Peyote, Kameriye Sokak 4, Nevizade, http://peyote.com.tr
Turkish experimental rock bands, folk acts and everything in between play here four to five nights of the week. Peyote isn’t just a venue which launches bands, it is also a successful music label. The venue is three levels with three very different options for punters. While the third floor is for those looking to relax while a DJ spins a variety of tunes, the second is for live music from local and foreign acts as the first is for those looking to party with help from DJs which come from all around the world.
Istanbul Acts You Should Check Out
Gripin – Soundcloud
This five-piece formed in 1999 and have four albums to their name. They have supported the likes of Cake, Placebo, and Evanescence on tour. The alternative rock band have won countless awards in their home country and are playing SXSW in Austin in 2013. Listen to their song ‘Beş’ below.
Duman – Soundcloud
With their band name coming from a phrase in one of their songs, which translates to ‘our situation is dire’, Duman are an alternative rock band which have released four albums since their forming in 1997. As one of the biggest bands in Turkey, the band have also released a DVD, a live album from their Rock ‘n’ Coke set, as well as a best of album.
Teoman – Soundcloud
This Turkish singer is famous for his pop rock style and is as prolific as they come with 13 albums released since 1996. The 45 year old is also an actor and as you can see from the song below, ‘Rüzgar Gülü’ taken from his live album, where the fans sing along to every word, he is very well loved.
