Yes, Seoul is the home of the Gangnam district. And yes that is the area that PSY wrote about in his song, which has collected the most YouTube hits of any video ever.
But no, you won’t see Koreans in Seoul dancing like horses on the street to the viral hit. K-pop is definitely unavoidable in the city of over 10 million people, and the excesses of the bubble-gum style of pop is an interesting phenomenon that is now reaching worldwide audiences. It is not, however entirely representative of Seoul’s music scene.
Now, with the customary mentions of both PSY and K-pop out of the way, how about we look at what the rest of the city’s music scene has to offer?
The music scene in Seoul is heavily centred around Hongdae, the university district. Known for its indie music, urban and street art and nightclubs, this area is home to many underground musicians. Through many street art festivals and concerts, mainstream artists also perform in the area.
While the music scene in Seoul was in a dismal state for many years, in the latter years of the noughties it finally started coming into its own with international tours from Oasis, Chemical Brothers, Muse, and Pendulum helping to inspire a new generation of artists.
While there are few outlets for South Koreans to access foreign music other than the internet, the fact that those bands toured the country was a huge sign that music habits in the country were shifting.
No longer restricted to K-pop, musicians in Seoul have started gain notoriety through a small but growing indie scene.
The music that is currently coming out of the city’s indie scene can be as varied as your typical Western alternative music to even more radical territories.
Freak folk, electro rock, experimental electronica, and punk acts are all playing across South Korea’s capital.
There are numerous music venues dedicated to supporting the city’s music scene. Grand Ole Opry is a country and western bar, J Bar and Slug.Er are respectively home to local indie outfits and Ole Stompers Rock Spot is a haven for the music that it’s name suggests.
That’s not even the half of it, with eclectic spots across the city hosting diverse acts. Look no further than local grindcore band Bamseom Pirates who pretend to be right-wring radicals.
International music festivals (such the ones below) have only recently come to prominence in the past two years, yet the public has embraced such events.
Seoul’s independent music culture is more than worth the experience, but undoubtedly tourists will first be drawn to the lavish and overexposed K-pop world that envelops the entertainment sector of South Korea.
It’s distracting and definitely a part of Seoul’s music scene which you can’t ignore (even if you tried to), but don’t be surprised if you get tired of it very quickly.
That’s when the alternative music scene of Seoul will be there, waiting to save you.
Seoul Festivals/Conferences
Super Sonic Festival Korea: While this festival only started in 2012, it’s sister event, Japan’s Summer Sonic music festival is well known amongst music fans. Held over two days in August at Olympic Park in downtown Seoul, the festival draws acts from around the world. 2012’s line-up included the likes of the Smashing Pumpkins, Gym Class Heroes, The Vaccines, Tears For Fears, and Soulwax.
http://www.supersonickorea.com
Ultra Music Festival Korea: Also held at Olympic Stadium, this worldwide festival was held in Asia for the first time in 2012 with its Seoul event. UMF Korea is the biggest event of its kind in the entire continent. Acts perform in four phases across two days in early August. 2012’s line-up featured the likes of Tiesto, Carl Cox, Skrillex, Steve Aoki, and John Digweed. The festival is hosted in five different locations around the world each year, while a 2013 event is being planned for Seoul once again.
http://www.umfkorea.com
Seoul Fringe Festival: With pressures of commercialisation encroaching on the famous indie area that is Hongdae, this festival is becoming increasingly important in retaining the district’s significant arts culture. In 15 years the Seoul Fringe Festival has become the staple event for independent arts in South Korea. The festival showcases all types of artists, not just musicians, performing everywhere from venues to the streets.
http://eng.seoulfringefestival.net
Seoul Record Stores
Dol Record, Hwanghak Market
In business since the 70s, the walls of this store are lined with records, whilst the floor is full of boxes that have numerous LPs inside. The store’s record collection encompasses many foreign titles as well as local acts. Vintage Korean records aren’t cheap, with the country no longer producing vinyl. You can find anything from pop to classical at Dol Record.
Purple Record, Wausan-gil Hongdae
This independent store is home to a large selection of LPs, CDs and DVDs that is popular amongst local students. With many new release vinyls for sale, Purple Record is also home to rare LPs and funnily enough, rare CDs. Used CD and LPs are also for sale in what is one of the city’s most diverse record stores.
http://www.purplerecord.com
Record Forum Mapo-gu, Seogyo 362-2
It may look a little old from the outside, but this store, which opened in 1995, is somewhat of an institution in Seoul. Surviving the digital age isn’t easy, but Record Forum has stuck around thanks to its owner’s impeccable taste in music. With a diverse range, this store opens from 10am-11pm.
https://www.facebook.com/RecordForum
Seoul Venues
DGBD, Hongdae
Formerly called ‘Drug’, this music establishment is legendary amongst the local music scene. Situated in the area of Hongdae, all the best acts from the area have performed here over the years. While there are a few seats, the venue is mostly standing room only. There is also a balcony for those looking to appreciate some views. Focusing predominantly on rock music, this music venue should occupy at least one of your nights in the Hongdae.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/DGBD/232719816760533
POWWOW! B1, 559 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu
As new as late last year this venue demonstrates the growth of Seoul’s music and arts communities. Strictly DIY, this small and dark establishment has the word ‘POWWOW’ graffitied on the wall at the back of the stage. With a mantra that supports creativity, this venue supports all music types, POWWOW! is the place to experience Seoul’s underground music scene.
http://powwowseoul.wordpress.com
Club Ellui, 29 Cheongdam-dong Gangnam-gu
As one of the largest clubs in Asia, it’s no surprise that this establishment has a reputation for being one of the more popular places for young people to venture to on the weekends. Club Ellui has more fun planned than just the usual DJ and nightclub shenanigans. At certain hours during the night staff will jump onto the bars and dance while pouring shots into punters mouths. The dance floor has huge inflatable balls to keep revellers entertained as well. While on the weekends international DJs and bands are featured. Acts such as Diplo and The Pretty Reckless have performed here in the past.
http://cafe.naver.com/ellui/
Seoul Acts You Should Check Out
Goonam – Soundcloud
This young outfit belonging to Seoul’s indie rock scene released their debut, We Are Pure, in 2007. While the four-piece have since released it’s follow up in Woojung-Motel, they have also featured on the Seoul Seoul Seoul compilation as well as contributing to the Han Daesoo tribute album. Listen to their track ‘Blood’ below.
3rd Line Butterfly – Soundlcoud
This female led indie rock outfit formed at the turn of the century and have since released three studio albums, which has taken the band all over the world through various music showcases. The four-piece’s soft rock sensibilities have been rewarded with a Korean Music Award on five occasions.
Lowdown 30 – Soundcloud
Grungy, sweaty and dirty blues-rock emanates from this trio. Singing in English the band have released two albums, with 1 landing in 2012 and their debut, Jaira, in 2008. The former is nominated for ‘Rock Album of the Year’ and ‘Album of the Year’ at the 2013 Korean Music Awards. They’re highly lauded members of Seoul rock scene.
