The City of Light is a metropolis of romance and culture. Paris has always been known for its beauty, its artistic reverence and the Eiffel Tower. Its music scene is no less commended, but it’s far less ostentatious as the landmarks that characterise the French capitals tourism posters.
Aside from the city’s larger venues like Le Bataclan or even the Metro buskers finding Parisian music is harder than you know.
Despite what you may think this is isn’t the time to use a pun about underground music being extremely difficult to find.
In fact Paris’ love of jazz, which has barely faltered since the revival hit America long ago, is a common event located in the city’s cellars (or caveaux in French). Dixieland, Chicago, bop and free-jazz styles cease to age in Paris’ music scene.
While the club scene here is more about being seen then revelling in the music, the concert spaces and gig halls all provide ample amounts of quality French music. You just need to know where to look.
While some of the best music venues are listed below you can’t go past Le Klub, Le Carmen, Le Pompon and Le Cantine de Belliville for great live music.
Their respective exteriors all look less like music venues and more like any other humdrum building so don’t be surprised if you feel a little lost on your way there.
You might be lucky to chance upon some international shows in English, but the majority of bands in Paris will sing in the tradition of their own tongue.
That doesn’t mean the musician’s will be any less inspiring as big name French acts like Daft Punk and Phoenix prove the country knows how to foster talent.
Paris especially is home to prestigious music schools such as Conservatoire de Paris and Conservatoire Rachmaninoff.
Which makes it hardly surprising that the city’s many classical music halls and opera houses host high quality music frequently.
Sure, as a tourist you may be more likely to sample the cabaret shows that are offered, but you’ll be missing out on an incredible alternative and indie music community.
It might not be right in front of your face like other famous music cities, but in Paris all you need to do is scratch beneath the surface to find a music scene of value.
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Balades Sonores, 1 Avenue Trudaine
First as a collective and label Balades Sonores eventually expanded into a record store in early 2012 focusing on artists who have been snubbed by the traditional routes of music discovery. While not just stopping at promoting these acts through recorded music this record store also hosts its mini festival, concert series and frequent in store performances.
Gals Rock, 17 Rue Henry Monnier
As you probably already guessed this store proudly celebrates feminist rock culture. While its stock selection probably lends Gals Rock as more of a clothing establishment than a music one the temple dedicated to female musicians and acts such as Cat Power, Austra and Patti Smith quashes this sentiment. In the same background you’ll find CDs and vinyl, but you’ll have to make your way through their clothing section first to find it. Gals Rock also sells stationary, books and magazines.
Ground Zero, 23 Rue Sainte Marthe
Foremost famous for its indie rock-centric selection of music this record store also finds favour through its electronic collection located in the basement and its support of small French and foreign labels. What’s more of a testament to its reputation though is that Ground Zero was one of the first to benefit from the financial and logistical support of CALIF (Club action of French independent labels). CALIF was established to protect independent and alternative music culture.
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Pitchfork Music Festival Paris
First held in 2011 after expanding to the French capital from its home in Chicago the notorious publication’s international foray into festivals has seen great success. This is hardly surprising given their ability to book quality acts like Grizzly Bear, Bon Iver, Cut Copy, Washed Out and James Blake just to name a few. The festival is Located at the Grande halle de la Villette, one of Europe’s most revered cattle slaughterhouses of the 19th century, this now state of the art multi purpose facility saw 20,000 punters for the 2012 festival. Read our full guide to the 2013 event here.
La Flèche d’Or, 102 rue de Bagnolet
Paris’ most famous indie music venue may regularly close down, but this enduring institution always opens back up again. Located inside a converted train station overlooking an abandoned railway line up and coming and established indie acts play for almost every night of the week. And the best part is it’ll usually only cost you between €5-10. Although the gigs tend to sell out here so make sure you book in advance.
Le Batofar, Port de la Gare
On the banks of the Seine house you’ll find more touristy restaurants and cabarets than you will music hotspots. However there is one here that are worth checking out. This Irish floating lighthouse has its own concert hall, restaurant, terrace and a fake beach out front in summer. However what sets its apart from the niceties of the tourist haunts that surround it is that Le Batofar doesn’t stick to the sonic safe ground. It instead hosts bands that range from Afrobeat to heavy metal, reggae and breakcore.
See
Père Lachaise Cemetery, 6 rue du Repos & bd de Ménilmontant
If you up for something a touch morbid this cemetery won’t just provide you with extraordinary looking tombs, but it’ll allow you to pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison. Morrison’s grave is decorated with cigarettes, flower garlands and alcoholic offerings. You can find The Doors frontman’s grave in Division 6 with maps available at the conservation office.
Cité de la Musique, 221 Avenue Jean Jaurès
Translating to ‘city of music’, this establishment holds true to its name. Located within the La Villette quarter it is home to a concert hall, museum, exhibition halls, workshops, and archives. The museum component features several hundred musical instruments – including those used in both classical and popular music genres. The museum’s collection dates from the 15th to the 20th century and is organised and exhibited by period. Audio devices with commentary are also provided.
Read our list of the best music museums of the world here.
What better way is there to see the music sites of Paris than with the convenience of having a tour guide show you the way? The Paris edition of City Music Tours allows three options to choose from. Whether your interest lie in classical, jazz or rock all tours will set you back just €10. All walking tours are in English and now all you need to do is decide whether Hector Berloz, Miles Davis or Jim Morrison catch your attention more.
Parisian Acts You Should Check Out
Melody’s Echo Chamber – Facebook
Melody Prochet creates the sort of dream psychedelic rock that absorbs you with each listen. If her 2012 self-titled debut reminds you of Tame Impala than you won’t be surprised to find that lead singer Kevin Parker helped produce the album. The pair met after Melody’s previous band My Bee Garden supported Tame Impala on their 2010 European tour.
Yuksek – Soundcloud
If you haven’t heard this electronic producer than he’s probably remixed something you have heard. Although Pierre-Alexandre Busson has also found a following through his two albums, 2009’s Away From The Sea and 2011’s Living On The Edge Of Time. The producer also launched his very own label, Partyfine, in early 2013.
Fredda – Facebook
With two solo album’s under her belt – 2007’s Toutes Mes Aventures and 2009’s Marshmallow Paradise – this songstress proved that she was more than just a lead singer of a 1960s cover band. Combining acoustic blues and folk Fredda has taken her sound across the world.
