Most don’t think of Russia as a travel destination but rather a country that attracts international news headlines like a magnet. And when you think of the music scene in Russia, the first thing that probably comes to mind is the Pussy Riot fiasco. But don’t let that be indicative of the country’s music scene or Saint Petersburg’s in particular.
Sure the country’s early music history is nothing to praise, much in thanks to the Soviet Union’s reign, where bands were heavily governed through lyrical restrictions and weren’t allowed to be officially recorded at all. But due to the country’s difficult conditions, bands grew in spite of the government, becoming popular through word of mouth and by being underground both figuratively and literally.
Saint Petersburg though has always been at the forefront of the country’s music scene, with the city seeing various new music movements emerge before anywhere else in Russia.
The most prominent scene to come from the city was formed as the Russian Rock Club, with over 100 musicians on the books by the end of the 80s. It was Saint Petersburg’s first real platform for alternative music.
The underground music culture of Saint Petersburg has been growing ever since, the city is now known as the place to experience live rock and alternative acts in the country, and the fact that local artists and live music in Saint Petersburg is in such a healthy state is quite remarkable.
How could its underground not flourish though? Saint Petersburg has seen everything from revolution to war and famine. Their artists have plenty to sing about and have endured government oppression like few others have.
If rock clubs aren’t to your liking, Saint Petersburg is also famed for its contemporary jazz bars and symphony orchestras, which can be heard in some of the city’s most lavish venues.
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It was also first to adapt to club culture in the late 80s, however it wasn’t until the middle of the 90s that clubs (whether rock or otherwise) really started to boom.
The choices as such for tourists today are numerous, whether you’re looking to experience local bands or dance to DJs, invariably Saint Petersburg has you covered.
But beware of a night life rule called ‘face control’. Entry fees at clubs are sometimes dependent on just how good you look. If you’re pretty enough you might just get in for free, however if you’re deemed to be on the wrong end of genetics, you may have to pay or even be turned away. Although this culture is far more prevalent in Moscow, where dance clubs are more popular among the locals.
Saint Petersburg clubs and venues are less pretentious than in Moscow, clearly the former is far more interested in the alternative music scene and support of its local artists. A fact that should persuade tourists with an interest in music to explore Saint Petersburg’s music culture, which will no doubt be a delight for alternative rock fans.
Saint Petersburg Festivals/Conferences
Tuborg Greenfest
Sponsored by the Danish beer Tuborg, this festival runs as a series of events in European countries such as Serbia, Ukraine, Bulgaria and Croatia. The festival has made its way to Saint Petersburg from 2006 onwards. The one day event has seen the likes of Jamiroquai, Linkin Park, Fatboy Slim, P!nk and 30 Seconds To Mars play in the past. While the 2012 event was headlined by the Red Hot Chili Peppers and The Vaccines. Clearly Turborg Greenfest is one of the few chances for Saint Petersburg locals to see international acts in their country.
White Nights Festival
As one of the country’s most popular festivals, the event celebrates the season of the visible midnight sun. Throughout the festival there are multiple events which include parades, dances, a spectacular fireworks display, ornate sailboat demonstrations, classical ballet and music events. The Palace Square also becomes a stage for huge international music acts, with thousands of Russian fans gathering to see the likes of Paul McCartney, Scorpions, and The Rolling Stones perform live over the years.
SKIF
This festival was born in honour of contemporary artist and musician Sergei Kuryokhin, with like-minded music individuals coming from all around the world to play each year. Focusing on experimental music, art and film, the event has been held since 1998 with the aim to promote such music in Russia. Past headliners have included the likes of Thurston Moore, Deerhoof, and Polar Bear.
Saint Petersburg Records Stores
Kailas, Pushkinskaya ul 10
Those looking to experience Russian music should make their way here first. There’s also hundreds of official Russian releases of Western artists, but Kailas is perfect for those looking to find releases by local musicians. Fans of classical, electronica, jazz, and world music are well catered for here as well. On the unlikely chance that music isn’t your thing, or you’re travelling with someone who isn’t taken by shelves full of records, Kailas strangely enough, also has an ‘Eastern department’ that sells incense, clothing, and jewellery from the Middle East.
Vinyl Story Club, Aptekarskiy prospekt 2
Rather than just sticking to one form of business this establishment, this location is three music venues in one. It’s also home to a record store and while it only opened in September of 2012, their collection of records is over 6,000 strong. While there is an abundance of records from the 70s, there is also plenty of 80s disco, as well as rare LPs from the 90s. There is also an impressive assortment of progressive rock from around the globe and Beatles originals for die hard fans of the Fab Four.
Rock Island, Kirochnaya ulitsa, 8 А
As the oldest record store in Saint Petersburg, Rock Island is home to an extensive collection of new and used records. With genre representation for progressive rock, hard rock, jazz, and Russian music, the store caters for a diverse audience. Second hand audio equipment is also on sale as well as CDs, DVDs, VHS, and music-related books. But more conveniently Rock Island also offers an audio transfer service for those looking to get their beloved vinyl onto a digital format.
Saint Petersburg Bars
Griboedov, Voronezhskaya ul 2a
Owned by local outfit Dva Camoleta (which you can listen to below), this venue is an above ground café/bar and also an underground club which has been converted from a bomb shelter. Opening in 1996, Griboedov is named after the famous Russian playwright who lived in the city. Upstairs is where you’ll find live music in the evenings and where you’ll also experience some of the city’s best alternative music.
Place, ul Marshala Govorova 47
A stage for acts rather than just your usual nightclub, this aptly named venue features bands from a variety of genres that ranges from rock to electro. This dimly lit venue also features balconies overlooking the stage as well as a café for those looking for something to eat. This rather extravagant venue is one of the best places in Saint Petersburg to experience live music.
Mod, Konyushennaya pl 2
With a 60s flare, this club located in the centre of Saint Petersburg is a popular attraction to the youth of the city. As one of the city’s most teeming live music venues this underground establishment is predominantly the place to catch local rock bands, although house DJs have also been known to spin some tunes as well. With two concert halls, one for gigs and the other for DJs, it is definitely not uncommon to find Mod packed with people. The tiny balconies inside the venues ensure that punters are spoilt for choice when it comes to viewing a performance, and Mod is open seven days a week from 6.00pm to 6.00am.
Saint Petersburg acts you should check out
Muc J
Real name; Dmitry Fedorov, this up and coming producer creates complex tracks with the city’s much loved jazz turned into a much more abstract element of his music. With low fuss beats, it’s easy to get lost in Muc J’s music.
Dva Samoleta
Translating into Two Planes in English, this trio have been at the forefront of the alternative music scene in Russia since the 90s. Playing a Ska-latino combination, the band made their name by starting out at the infamous Russian Rock Club, which was the city’s first platform for alternative music.
Splean
This five piece first formed in 1994, the year in which their debut album also dropped. From their inception the band quickly rose to prominence and are now one of the country’s most popular bands. Splean continue to transform their alternative rock sound, with their eleventh LP Optical Illusion, being released in 2012.
