When you think of music cities, Hong Kong may not be what comes to mind first. The music scene in this city of over 7 million is divided into two very different halves.
As a result, what you get is either a very distinct, pure and exciting underground scene and the very juxtaposed manufactured and mainstream pop machine which runs much in the same vein as J-pop and K-pop.
The indie music scene in Hong Kong was in a dire state up until the late 90s and it’s not hard to see why, with the area often described as a ‘city of commerce’
There is a notable lack of international tours, with few festivals held, while small music venues seeming to fall quickly.
But the underground scene has ever so slowly started to evolve and with it has emerged local talent that provides an important alternative from the celebrity excess of their more popular counterparts.
While high rents, little government support for the arts and lack of exposure are seen as the main reasons behind Hong Kong’s stunted scene, it looks as if the city’s culture is about to improve vastly.
The government which has long put off cultural development, last year announced that 15 performance venues would be built via a 2.8 billion injection into this oft-neglected sector.
But this is highly unlikely to affect the underground community, with pop stars or some of the city’s most beloved orchestras likely to fill such venues.
One of the biggest forms of pop music in Hong Kong is Cantopop, which is sung in Cantonese. It has been around since the 70s, but it wasn’t until the 80s that it became hugely successful. With the city’s biggest stars appearing on TV, in movies and throughout tabloids it should come as no surprise that the music resembles western pop music.
With songs typically being love ballads or dance floor anthems this music scene has more ties to Australia than you might think.
Some of its stars have played shows at venues as big as Rod Laver Arena and in 2011 Tourism Queensland hired the girl duo (appropriately named) Twins to attract Chinese tourists.
Mainstream pop music in Hong Kong is also made up of songs sung in English and Mandopop, sung in Mandarin.
The huge discrepancy between being a pop star and an independent band means that experiencing a scene like this would give you a new found appreciation for what underground actually is.
It may be small, but more importantly the indie music scene in Hong Kong is undisturbed by the pressures of record sales, corporate affairs or the worries that generally pollute western music culture.
In that sense, Hong Kong’s music scene is a unique music experience which is virtually undiscovered and untouched.
There is little room for scepticism and essentially, it’s all about the music.
Hong Kong also has a range of hidden record stores that are worth checking out and there are plenty of bars to discover.
There is certainly a music culture in Hong Kong that is worth discovering, which leads us to boldly declare that there is more to this city than discount shopping.
Hong Kong Festivals/Conferences
Clockenflap: One of the city’s only festivals to feature international acts, Clockenflap is a two-day experience which last year featured Santigold and Bombay Bicycle Club at the top of the bill. While local Hong Kong acts also feature prominently, you may be surprised to hear that Australian acts like The Rubens, Chet Faker and Sneaky Sound System are on the 2012 lineup. With the festival to run over the first two days in December, Primal Scream, Alt-J and Azealia Banks are set to headline.
http://www.clockenflap.com/line-up
The Future Sounds of Hong Kong Music Festival: First held in August and brought together by local Cantopop star Chet Lam, the festival promotes a new trend in the scene where young rock-pop bands are beginning to take the charts by storm. Five of the city’s most up and coming bands are showcased in this event which “represents the freedom of this city, young people voicing out and having independent thoughts under the big wheel”.
http://www.facebook.com/events/100539813423666/
K-Pop Festival: It’s important to note that as the culture of Hong Kong grows, international pop markets start to invade. The global expansion of K-pop has some worried how it might affect the Cantopop industry. This K-pop festival by Music Bank features some of South Korea’s most popular acts.
Silvermine Bay Music Festival: Held since 2006 and by the beach, this festival is more a of party than a festival for the local punters. Sunshine, swimming and some of the city’s most popular acts come together to create an experience which will leave you raving..
http://www.facebook.com/smfmusic
Hong Kong Record Stores
White Noise Records – 1/F, 4 Canal Rd East, Causeway Bay, 2591 0499, www.whitenoiserecords.org
Hand picked by the owner, this record store is one of Hong Kong’s most notorious. While the store has a broad range of alternative music, the most popular records sold come from underground Japanese bands. Also acting as a label, White Noise released it’s first album in 2008 with Japanese band Toe’s debut.
Hip-Hop Records – 183 Temple St, Yau Ma Tei, 8203 3352, www.hip-hop.com.hk
It’s hard to find, but is definitely worth checking out. The store cites that their customers are made up by half local, half tourists and they don’t just sell Hip-hop music. Their selection ranges from electronica, R& B, house and techno. The store also attracts many local DJs.
Zoo Records – Shop B31, Sino Centre, 582-592 Nathan Rd, Mong Kok, 3188 2303, www.zoo-records.com
This record store has resided in a basement since 2002, but its found it’s own little niche in providing alternative music from Northern Europe. Mainly from Scandinavian countries such Iceland, Norway and Finland where the store’s owner once spent time as a record producer. The store also sometimes brings in artists from such countries to play small gigs.
Hong Kong Bars
Sense 99 – 2/F, 99F Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong, 9466 4695
Once labelled as a secret music bar, the popularity of Sense 99 has become so great, that few would call it that anymore. Although it is tricky to find, the bar is within a block of flats and you should buzz to ensure you’re let in. While you can enjoy indie music and beer downstairs, upstairs has a range of instruments that are begging to be played by visiting musicians.
Hidden Agenda – 2A, Wing Fu Industrial Building, 15-17 Tai Yip Street, Kwun Tong, +852 9170 6073, www.hiddenagenda.hk
Run by a group of local musicians who found no choice but to open this venue in a less than glamorous factory due to Hong Kong’s high rent, this is an underground venue that is more prized for its atmosphere than it’s looks. Local graffiti artists have provided the artwork on the walls in the venue, which hosts music from hardcore to electronic and even indie acts. Hidden Agenda is extremely important to the indie music scene.
Peel Fresco – 49 Peel St., Central, +852 2540 2046, www.peelfresco.com
While jazz music is at the centre of this small venue, indie rock, country and blues types will also find a home here. There is live music every night of the week, with Thursday night featuring a hot salsa band. Although it’s important to note that most of the music is toned down to comply with noise restrictions.
Hong Kong Acts You Should Check Out
Hungry Ghosts – Soundcloud
Touted as being Hong Kong’s indie heroes this band is one of the most celebrated acts of the underground scene. Formed in 2007, this four piece play indie-pop powered by energetic riffs and catchy melodies. ‘You & Me’ comes from their suitably titled EP2 and given the likeability of the song, it’s crazy to think most of Hong Kong is uninitiated with the city’s indie music scene.
Noughts and Exes – Soundcloud
With one album already done and dusted, this indie-folk five piece reformed in 2009, two years after their debut, Act One Scene One was released. In late 2010, the follow up, The Start of Us met critical acclaim with it’s release. The band have an ambitious to plan to go international and create a unique project that explores the storytelling aspect of their music. Listen to the title track from their sophomore release below.
9 Maps – Soundcloud
This folk-pop trio have made great strides in just over a year. Their debut album, High Incline, is set to be released in December. They’ve even opened for acts such as Elbow, Metronomy, The Naked and Famous and The Jezebels. Check out the title track off their debut below.
The Yours – Soundcloud
They call it noise pop, but this five-piece outfit doesn’t just fit in one genre. With elements of punk rock, fuzz and plenty of distortion the melodies of lead singer Leung Pakting, are barely heard, yet still somehow soothing. Currently supporting their debut album, The Way We Were, which was released in September, the band have supported the likes of Yuck and The Drums. Listen to ‘Honey Treats’ from their debut below.
