Havana’s music scene is rich and thriving. It is however untapped and relatively unappreciated outside of Cuba.
The city’s reputation for being unsafe has undoubtedly stifled Cuba’s international music presence, yet tourists shouldn’t be scared away by the Cuban capital’s notoriety, just cautious of the dangers of such a country.
As Havana is dependent on tourism the city is heavily policed and prison sentences are extremely harsh for crimes involving tourists. There are certain areas to avoid at night time, but during the day there is nothing stopping you from soaking up the unique aspects of Cuban music.
Local music and jazz schools are popular amongst international travellers looking to involve themselves in the Havana rhythm.
Regardless of your motivation for travelling to this city of over two million people, once in Havana there is no choice but to revel in the local musicians and the sounds coming from the streets.
The buskers of Havana aren’t the same as your everyday street performers in Australia though. It’s a state licensed job in Cuba and tourists are expected to pay.
No need to get up in arms about throwing away your petty change though, there are many indoor gigs that are held free of charge and even if you have to pay on entry it won’t cost you anymore than $6
However most Cubans head to a town square, not a club, to listen to music and dance with thousands of other people.
Havana’s music history is steeped in jazz. Even in the 21st century twenty year olds are appreciating jazz music just as their parents and grand parents did.
The island’s history of slavery has resulted in not only many African music groups but also the development of the rumba music genre, which is comprised of vocals percussion and dance.
Timba was cultivated out of salsa although the popular dance music genre was distinctive enough for it to become apart of the Cuban lifestyle through the 90s.
Cubans are also interjecting their own cultural style into hip-hop, cumbia, roots and heavy metal.
While the music of Havana and Cuba can be heavily centred on dancing, the lyrical content of local musicians has much to do with the Cuban Revolution and challenges unique to their daily lives.
One of the most defining aspects of Cuban music scene is that a government salary sustains many local bands. Acts survive despite a fall in popularity because this tradition has been preserved.
This has allowed for Havana’s street music culture to prosper over the years. It is also the reason behind bands touring nationally and the many festivals that occur throughout the country.
While Cuba and its government undoubtedly have many faults, the country’s largely undiscovered music culture is very much the diamond in the rough.
Havana Festivals/Conferences
Havana International Jazz Festival
Just shy of turning 30 the 2013 event will be the 29th year of Havana celebrating its love affair with jazz. The festival has become one of the most important events in Cuba with over eight nights of local jazz music. Big names of the genre from around the world have attended in the past. The festival is bookended by an opening gala and closing pageant. The 2013 International Jazz Festival will be held from the 19th to the 22nd of December.
Havana Festival Of Contemporary Music
Over eight days this event is held to promote both old and upcoming contemporary productions. Cuban groups, composers, directors and soloists are all featured in some of Havana’s best concert halls. Symphonic, electroacoustic, choir and chamber music, and ensemble concerts, as well as conferences, and auditions are also held throughout the festival. During the conference aspect of the festival composers, interpreters and musicologists meet to discuss the recent trends in Cuba.
http://www.musicacontemporanea.cult.cu
International Electroacoustic Music Festival
Over 30 years old this annual event features DJs, musicians and composers from around Cuba. Originally put together by Juan Blanco, the first festival was held on the beach of Varadero, however it eventually moved to the Historical Centre of Havana in 1998. Held in mid March the festival attracts some of the biggest names in electroacoustic music.
Havana Record Stores
Record stores in Havana are incredibly difficult to locate and you won’t find any online stores based in the Cuban capital either. The city’s humidity along with bad storage has ruined many of the old LPs from when vinyl was the only source of physical recorded music.
However there are multiple street fairs that sell second hand vinyl. Your best option is to head to Plaza de Armas on Saturday’s where there is a used book market. Here you’ll find a handful of dealers selling second hand vinyl.
Undoubtedly though Havana will bring out the real ‘hunter’ in a person searching for some old LPs. The city’s street music culture should make up for those unsuccessful though, once in Havana there is no escaping Cuban music.
Havana Music Venues
Jazz Café, Top floor, Galerías de Paseo, cnr Calle 1 & Paseo
As one of the most famous music venues in Havana Jazz Café attracts some of the biggest names in Cuban music. The establishment is located at the top floor of a shopping mall, however it is at night when most of the shops have when it swings into action. While a great menu is on offer the real attractions at this venue are the live jazz, timba and salsa.
La Madriguera, Cnr Salvador Allende & Luaces
Hidden from tourists this establishment has inspired the phrase “a hidden place for open ideas”. Those who find La Madrigueara should expect to be stunned by the music innovation that takes place inside this artistic refuge. The venue is particularly known for becoming a home to Havana’s youth with arts, crafts, rap and rumba all activities that are undertaken here.
La Casa del Escabeche, Cnr Obispo & Villegas Habana Vieja
Open from 11-midnight this intimate bar and restaurant is a good choice to begin your night. The band is crammed into a section of the establishment, yet they still manage to play beautiful local music that will make your experience at La Casa del Escabeche worthwhile. You may find it hard to leave though, as the music seeps out into the street luring those outside to venture in.
Havana Acts You Should Check Out
Buena Vista Social Club
While not strictly an act this former members club was a place for musicians to meet and play during the 40s. Nearly 50 years after its closure Cuban musician Juan de Marcos González and American guitarist Ry Cooder recorded with local artists, some of whom were veterans of the club. The finished album, which took the namesake of the club, went on to achieve international success and also inspired an Academy Award nominated documentary of the same name.
Gloria Estefan
Born in Havana, Estefan grew up in Miami after her family fled during the Cuban Revolution. The singer went on to achieve incredible success becoming one of the top 100 best selling music artists with an estimated 100 million records sold world wide. She has also won seven Grammy awards across 11 studio albums, with her 12th to be released in 2013.
https://soundcloud.com/junior_sillvva/gloria-estefan-hotel-nacional
