Over the past twenty years Santiago’s music and arts scenes have undergone a cultural reawakening. The Chilean capital along with the rest of the South American country was stymied during the military regime between 1973 and 1990.
After General Augusto Pinochet overthrew Salvador Allende’s Socialist government Chile went into a dark recess, which has often been described as a cultural blackout by locals.
The music scene was effectively put into a coma with bands and individuals exiled or imprisoned with some allegedly tortured and killed by the military. All forms of rock music and many other styles were prohibited.
After a return to democracy the cultural life of Chile and its capital was given a rebirth. The economy boomed and artists started to inject some life into Santiago’s dormant music scene.
Just as the Chilean politicians have set an ambitious goal of making the nation the first country in Latin America to achieve developed-country status by 2020 the music community of Santiago is quickly growing.
As past South American travellers can tell you Santiago is increasingly becoming a cosmopolitan city, only second behind the Argentinian capital of Buenos Aires
Its little surprise that Santiago’s cultural renaissance has been rapid. Before Pinochet’s dictatorship the metropolis was the international centre for Latin American pop while many bands joined the ‘rock en espanol’ revolution. Chilean folk artists were also major players in the Nueva canción (new song) genre and movement in a period of Latin American political struggle that occurred within the continent.
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Through all this Chilean’s have developed an extraordinary resilience. In 2010 the sixth largest earthquake to be recorded in history hit the country. Yet barely a year later there were few signs of damage. The music scene has continued to develop with rock music variations and folk stylings characterizing the live music culture.
Rock and heavy metal in particular are popular amongst locals. Both styles are sung in Spanish and along with pop artists these genres have more recently achieved international success for Chilean acts.
Local hip-hop artists also started garnering attention from the mid to late 80s with the mid 90s seeing the genre achieving mainstream status.
Santiago’s club scene is continually evolving, however the South American tradition of starting things late and finishing in the early hours of the morning appears to be a habit that will never wane. For many dinner is from 9-11pm with the bar your next stop from 11pm-2am and then its time to hit the nightclubs, which close at 5am.
The city’s music scene can be appreciated after dark in the historic centre, Bellavista and the bohemian Ñuñoa. While the area of Barrio Brasil is teeming with artists of all kinds there are several nightclubs in Pío Nono.
With the resurrection of the Chilean arts the scars of the military regime have slowly begun to fade. The local music scene is beginning to thrive and the best place to evidence this is in the country’s capital.
Santiago Festivals/Conferences
Lollapalooza Chile
The Chilean version of the Chicago event was first held in 2011 with Lollapalooza expanding to Rio de Janeiro a year later. Much like its American counterpart Lollapalooza Chile embodies everything big music festivals aspire to be. Held annually in April the first three huge lineups have boasted the likes of The Killers, The National, Kanye West, The Flaming Lips, Arctic Monkeys and Bjork just to name a few.
http://lineup.lollapaloozacl.com
Ultra Music Festival
This international music festival, which first originated in Miami has multiplied and among its new many locations Santiago hosted its first Ultra Music Festival in 2013. The event ran from 8pm one night until 5am the next morning with two stages and three pools. The likes of Avicii, Armin Van Buuren and Carl Cox amongst many others headlined the inaugural Chilean Ultra Music Festival.
ttp://ultrachile.com/en/lineup/
Santiago Record Stores
Persa Victor Manuel Flea Market, Persa Victor Manuel, Galpon 4
There are few better places to prove your worth as a vinyl hunter than a market. Sorting out trash from treasure and finding rare releases and artefacts is exactly what LP lovers do at the Persa Victor Manuel Flea Market. Some sellers have been passing on their second hand goods for over 15 years. At this market you’ll find everything from Chilean folk, classic and modern rock and various other genres.
Funtrax, Nueva de Lyon 029 Providencia
This vinyl hive is one of the most notorious spots in the Santiago with its reputation coming from its eclectic collection of LPs. Pop, rock, jazz and eighties, records you name it, Funtrax have probably got it. The store also has a decent selection of hip-hop releases with not just American and Latin’s represented but also a host of other non-mainstream MCs included.
Kind of Blue, Merced 323
The legends of music are celebrated in this stores record collection. Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, Crosbys, Hendrix and The Beatles along with many others are featured heavily in Kind Of Blue. But rather than just being a testament to musicians of the past the store also stocks LPs from modern musicians. You’ll also find Brazilian and vintage jazz records here.
Santiago Music Venues
La Batuta, Jorge Washington 52 Ñuñoa, http://www.batuta.cl
With a capacity of 250 people this venue is Santiago’s oldest venue for live music in the city. While one part of the establishment hosts international and local acts that play, rock, metal, hip-hop and jazz music the other section is home to the bar. With a tagline on their Facebook page that translates to “the only place where the customer is never right” you can expect a night of debauchery and great local music at La Batuta.
Galpón Víctor Jara, Huérfanos 2146, http://www.galponvictorjara.cl
Named in honour of folk singer and political activist Victor Jara this warehouse hosts shows from up and coming New Chilean Cumbia, gypsy and cueca acts. Also known as a cultural centre the significance of this music hub to the local music scene is incredibly important. Jara was a Chilean revolutionary who was presumably killed by the military government after publicly expressing his liberal views.
La Chimenea, Principe de Gales 90 Santiago Centro, http://www.lachimenea.cl/sitio/
Famed not only for its live music but also for its culinary delights this establishment has both food and performances getting patrons through its doors. In fact punters hit up La Chimena in large numbers. Weekend or not it’s a common sight to see this venue brimming with people. Music wise you can see anything from local indie acts to traditional bolero or folk here. Movies are shown occasionally and while the venue is closed on Sundays on Friday and Saturdays the party doesn’t finish until at least 4.30am in the morning.
Santiago Acts You Should Check Out
Protistas – Soundcloud
Formed in 2008 this five piece released their sophomore album, Las Cruces, in 2012. Protistas combine indie and folk rhythms with elements of noise, pop and neo-psychedelia thrown into the mix. Listen to their track ‘Backyard Trip Suite’ below.
Fernando Milagros – Soundcloud
This singer-songwriter has three albums under his name with his last release, San Sebastián, dropping in 2011. Fernando Milagros combines pop, rock and American folk to harness an alternative edge. The singer is considered a key player in Santiago’s music scene. Listen to ‘Al Interior’ below.
Dinky – Soundcloud
Real name Alejandra Del Pilar Iglesias River the singer, now based in Berlin, is responsible for a four album strong discography of experimental electronic music. Considered a member of the second generation of electronic artists to hale from Chile Dinky cites jazz, disco and blues as her main influences.
