This Brazilian metropolis is an intimidating beast to say the least. It inhabits every idea of the phrase ‘concrete jungle’. The largest city in the Southern Hemisphere (9th in the world), the population swells to almost 20 million as São Paulo is defined by grey high rises.
It’s not pretty to say the least, however São Paulo is redefining itself as a cultural metropolis as the New York Times writes.
With immigrants arriving from Bolivia, Colombia, Nigeria, Spain and Portugal adding new flavours into the city and old residents turning old spaces into new cultural delights the cultural side of São Paulo is transforming.
‘Transforming into what exactly?’ is a good question. But with a new generation of artists, restaurateurs, theater companies and bar owners focusing on blighted districts that were no-go zones just a few years ago the city’s cultural scene is becoming an eclectic mix that juxtaposes fresh energy with dilapidated areas.
Rua Augusta in particular has exploded with bars and restaurants that best exhibit the city’s new found growth.
Invariably the music scene has benefitted alongside with these new cultural developments. As local Facundo Guerra demonstrates in the same NY Times piece “So many people in São Paulo come from other cities that there’s a sense we’re in the same boat. In all of Brazil, there’s no place with the energy of Lower Augusta, where there’s a constellation of musicians and composers trying out various ideas.”
While these areas and ideals are constantly fighting a battle against a city that is obsessed with money and high rise developments it’s hard to think of a city this big without at least some form of a music scene.
For tourists at its most obvious the music of São Paulo can be experienced though street music, the metro stations in particular have plenty of exhibitions and buskers working away at their craft.
That’s not to mention the street pianos that locals, sometimes regardless of talent, step up to the plate to play.
The street music may not be as prevalent in São Paulo as some other big cities, but given the chaotic nature of the metropolis any sign of it is refreshing.
On the music festival side of things the São Paulo music scene has also received a boost. The goliath in Lollapalooza expanded to the Brazilian city in 2012 (and fellow South American cities in Santiago and Buenos Aires in 2011 and 2013 respectively ) to cater for the continents thirst for international acts after years of big name acts avoiding South America.
Sure São Paulo isn’t as picturesque as Rio, but read onto to find out ten reasons why you should be experiencing the city’s music scene.
Witness the Mighty Brazilian Lollapalooza In Person
When this event expanded to Brazil in 2011 it gave the locals a much needed avenue towards seeing international artists. While the mammoth Rock In Rio catered for Brazilian music fans to an extent, this annual event would help give them access to a much greater source of live international bands. The likes of Muse, Arcade Fire, Soundgarden, Nine Inch Nails, Foo Fighters, Arctic Monkeys, Janes Addiction, MGMT and Skrillex to name a few have all played in Brazil as a result.
See CSS Live In Their Hometown.
Cansei de Ser Sexy or ‘I got tired of being sexy’ in English, have been one of the city’s biggest indie exports in recent years. The four-piece, who sing in both Portugese and English have released four albums to date and received coverage from international press such as Pitchfork, NME and Rolling Stone. CSS have also made the trek out to Australia on more than one occasion playing the Big Day Out Festival.
Head to Cine Joia For One Of The City’s Most Dazzling Venues
Praça Carlos Gomes 82
Like most former cinemas turned music venues Cine Joia has an old classic rustic sense of beauty. While a restoration has polished the edges and added a new diamond-shaped bar aesthetic a light mapping system, which allows 2D projections to flit across the walls, has helped push this historic 1950s building into the 21st Century. They book an eclectic mix of acts that defies singular genres so look ahead to see if something interests you before you stop by.
Shop For Vinyl at Big PAPA Records
Rua 7 De Abril, 154 Centro
Jazz aficionadas this ones for you. Early jazz, fusion, improv and anything in between fills the walls so that any type of fan is catered for here. Not that lovers of country, rock, progressive rock, folk and blues won’t be left out either. These genres are represented at Big PAPA as well. With over thirty years of experience the husband and wife that run this establishment also run a record fair and know a thing or two about the 1500 LPs they stock here. The store also gets bonus points for having an English translator, which is more than just a little bit handy for the linguistically lazy.
Catch An Elekfantz Set While You’re In Town
The dance music duo of Daniel Kuhnen and Leo Pivoezani have transformed their childhood friendship of blues into a deep house and techno obsession that is Elekfantz. We’re more than just a little bit excited for the release of their forthcoming release, Dark Tales & Love Songs. You can hear a cut from that release below. This is one Brazilian electronic duo that you need to look out for.
Hear The Sounds Of São Paulo’s Emerging Music Scene at SESC Pompéia
Augusta 591, Baixo Augusta
Seen by many as the “classic” indie venue in the city this establishment is heralded for its fine selection of decent bands that play here almost every week. SESC Pompéia is no stranger to international acts either. Sebadoh, Macy Gray and Soko amongst others have played here in the past. There are several SESC community centres throughout the city, but the Pompéia location is considered one of the best.
Head to Galeria do Rock and Galeria Presidente to Shop Until You Drop at Multiple Record Stores
Galeria do Rock – 62, 24 de Maio St.
Galeria Presidente – 116, 24 de Maio St.
There are several record stores in São Paulo worth checking out and thankfully most of them are in the same area. The Galeria Presidente and Galeria do Rock are two almost side by side mini malls where alternative music lovers shop for vinyl goods. The Galeria Presidente has Velvet and London Calling. The former has great local indie records and the latter has international imports. Down at Galeria do rock the focus is on everything from hip-hop to heavy metal.
Experience the Psych Funkster That Is Curumin Live
This act has quite the music history behind him. After starting his craft at the age of eight and playing gigs by the time he was 16 Luciano Nakata Albuquerque toured the world whith his band Zomba. Under the moniker of Curumin the musician takes his cues from Brazilian music and American acts to create a psych-funk hybrid with many more styles heard in-between.
See Live Jazz and Blues at Bourbon Street Music Club
Rua dos Chanés 127
The premiere venue for live jazz and blues in the metropolis has won its crown by booking the likes of BB King and Ray Charles. While the price of gigs ranges from $30-$60 the quality of performers here more than makes up for dollars you have to let go of. Bourbon Street Music Club is open until late from Tuesday to Sundays.
Stock Up On Brazilian LPs at Trezeta Musik
R. Augusta, 2203 – loja 07
While their hard to find selection of funk, soul, R&B, reggae, dub, ska, jazz, post punk and latin is impressive. It’s their representation of local indie bands and Brazilian beats that gets us excited. It may only be a small store but for tourists this is great introduction to Brazilian music.
